LaserUser.com Forum (formerly RDWorksLab)

Today's random Fusion thing is part practical and part something to test clearances, kerf and fit. Those of us with a 3D printer or three or even small CNC routers will have accumulated a stack of Allen key sets, spanners and bits over time. So time for a play.

Version one with just the 0.18 not even close with some filing of slots so I cracked a few corners while assembling also made a couple of design tweaks. The Allen key Hex's are 0.05-0.1 oversize and nicely snug at that.

Version two raised the kerf to 0.22 and still needed some work with the file so time to push some faces on the slots. All female faces were pushed 0.1mm from the sketches on V3 and that resulted in just a neat fit with zero cleanup. Six spots of glue and it works nicely.

In the Zip file below if anyone is interested having a play with it as a tolerance and kerf test I have included V3 as a DXF produced by the Mapboards addon (includes the 0.22 kerf and offset faces already) and I have also included the Fusion 360 file if anyone wants to have a more serious play with it.

One set for the Laser and one each for my Printer enclosures and 'deep storage' for the remaining others.

You are getting very organized.

The truth is somewhat different. Call it a 'permanent' work in progress

Like with trying new things or materials with the printers making something useful with the testing is better than just boring test squares or 3D Benchies IMO. I was going to make them as 3D printed items like this holder for my precious Lindstroms but made it Laser cut for the figures to use on the next designs going forward.

Tim Mellor wrote: Mon Jun 10, 2019 Call it a 'permanent' work in progress

Aren't we all!

I spent Saturday upgrading my Prusa Mk3 to Mk3S- best organized and documented upgrade I have ever done. I have a spare Mk3 to Mk3S kit that I would sell cheap [with all the factory printed parts included], don't ask why.

I almost swallowed the Prusa Koolaid when I brought my first Ender Pro. At the time there was still some on going niggles with them and to pay such a premium over the Chinese offerings in the end didn't make sense I finished up with two and a direct drive extruder for one of them for less $ than a Prusa. It is a tough place to be in as he is clearly pouring $ into R&D toward progress and still trying to compete with what is largely derivative Chinese Printers.

Finally found the few hours to nibble my front panel and fit up the intake shroud on my Laser. Hand Nibblers and deburring tools for those who haven't got them or seen them are worth adding to your kit. Nearly zero cleanup, no heat, bent or jagged edges from other cutting options. Masking tape helps prevent rear side scratches from the tool. Was nise to have a Laser engraved line to work to as well

Is that vent an inlet or exhaust? I started with a Creality CR10 which is a great printer but I could see many improvements that should be made and then bought the Prusa as a kit so I would know the workings and also so that Mr Prusa could do the research for me as to how to improve it. Built as a MK3 it was lightyears ahead of the CR10 and he has offered 2 upgrades since that- now Mk3s- and it does what I want. It prints PETG like a dream and it sticks to the bed and releases with a flex. I have so many things going that I did not want to spend my remaining years working on a 3D printer- I want to design and make parts. Hence the Prusa Koolaid- tastes good and makes good usable parts... everyday.

That's the intake. The covers I have put on the other internal panel holes mean the only easy source of air is now through here just above the cutting height. Still some sheet metal gaps around doors etc but I can feel a good draught below the vent and visually the smoke flow is much improved.

The Flex bed and in particular now the coated one is available looks good. I have actually dumped my two magnetic ones from the Ender Pro's in favour of Glass as I can push the bed temperatures up. The CR-10S of mine does what I wanted from it big dumb and effective for PLA or PETG electrical enclosures generally. I have just finished putting it into a cabinet so it should be able to cope with ABS better if needed but so far I have avoided ABS because of it's quirks.

Back on topic sort of

This is a job I started a long time ago with a lack of Fusion skills and shelved it in the to hard basket. This is my MICSIG oscilloscope pictured a few posts ago. On the shelf above the bench the screen angle is less than ideal for viewing and if it gets propped up without the rear bail extended there is a risk of it dropping from the shelf To find 'space' to sit it on the bench for easier viewing permanently just isn't ever going to happen as bench space is always 50-100% less than needed.

So out with the measuring gear, verniers, protractors and other such stuff. Start with a simple sketch in Fusion 360 and several coffees to activate the Brain Cells and work from there. To check the measurements and angles as most are off axis print a small section to try (I don't bother with simple items). Several hours later and the final bits are off to the Printer. This is the sort of workflow I use when modelling items to fit real world items.

From scratch items I start with a sketchpad and pencil and rough out an iosometric roughy to work from. Even with Fusion open in front of me old school still makes sense

See what I get in the morning good parts or a visit from the spaghetti monster.

If you have a spare hour or so on a Sunday free this how to model a Cardboard box with Fusion 360 using the Sheetmetal option is well worth a watch. Take what you learn and do some 3D Cardboard sculpting or model making for the Laser. Brad Tallis of Autodesk doing the video.

https://youtu.be/2SbSmwAGecc?t=180