LaserUser.com Forum (formerly RDWorksLab)

Thank you, I will order them when I get back to the mother ship. I don't agree with all of his methods but there are many interesting ideas also. Now I want to build a 4x6' machine myself...

I would agree there is a few things that can be changed for the better but we all tend to have slightly different goals.

The cross bed airflow needs to be better directed/controlled along the front in particular and I think something a bit different for the Z axis and bed are the areas I would be looking at. Also likely to do something a bit different with the cladding.

What is contained in the packs is well worth the few $ as a start point regardless

Bump and so it starts.

40m of 2020 and 10m of 4020 T slot extrusion ordered. Zero space to start building but what the heck

Time to get a little serious about the bits and any mods that make it all work now I have an opening stash of T Slot.

1: 80 or 100W? At this stage I am more inclined toward the 100W (nominal) Reci W2 tube and matching supply but what would the extra 20W over an 80W really get me for the $? Interested in others thoughts on that?

2: Do I keep it at the standard bed as designed? 620x1250 or do I push it out to 850-900 deep. Costs of this are fairly minimal and rather than having an extension box for the tube I am more likely to push the out er cover (not shown in this render which is a 620mm deep bed) back and also put the exhaust duct internally. Much as I don't see myself needing the extra depth it would make the final Laser look less messy or tacked onto

I think you should start another topic for the build?

I would go for the bigger tube, I grew up in the fast car era and you cannot have too much power . Actually it solves a few problems, adjustments are not as critical and you can cut faster, when you do lose power in the future you will still have a surplus. Altho my EFR tube has lost only 5-10% in four years, but you will likely live and use this machine for many years and you will not regret it.

Again, if you have the room, I would go for the larger bed. What you may be doing with your machine will be different from my usage. I would allow room for a combiner lens/led unless you use a tube with an integral visible laser.

My machine has the gantry on the 1300 axis so your plans seem a bit different to me but it will only affect engraving, which you do with the gantry/laserhead as there is less mass moving. I would use one larger stepper for the long axis, I would be concerned about syncing two motors- a jackshaft can easily be used and easily adjusted.

I have still dreams of building my own and will be following closely and giving a lot of oldman advise, be forewarned

I will start a separate thread when I get into the build as it will depart a bit from the plans. I still need to rebuild a Garage roof so I have a location for it and my CNC Router along with the messy tools.

I don't use my red dot on my current laser so a combiner is already on the list. 90%+ convinced by a 100W Reci any real gains up from there are mainly time which at least at this stage are not an issue.

Being able to pass through wide door width pieces is attractive providing I can make it work while having this limited to 600 wide is a bit pointless.

Advice as always is welcome, if I decide to follow it is optional

So sort of a decision of bed Width. I ordered a 1000mm MGN15-H (finished bed circa 900mm) Linear Rail and over 1k assorted fasteners and fittings. The plan is to get everything underway apart from the Laser, Lens/Mirrors, Controller and Power supply in the next week so I can make a start on construction while I refill the Piggy Bank.

It's a long list but the Red bits are on the way as of tonight.

Didn't the original plans call for V wheels in the extrusion tracks [not the correct terminology]? I am happy that you are using Hiwin style rails and bearing blocks. Gotta be more precise.

V Wheels in V slot on the long axis and Hiwin style on the engrave/short side in these plans. It could be changed to Rails on the other axis later as well due to the construction without to many changes but I will start with this arrangement.

There is also a mid step option using metal rollers in the V slot instead of the more normal Delrin ones but I would have some concerns about wear in the V slots themselves.

Probably a good tradeoff- what does the Z use?