LaserUser.com Forum (formerly RDWorksLab)

And a few hours later new skill learned and model created. Break out the stash of Cereal packets (will get some better Card to use tomorrow) and off to the Laser after a quick stop in Inkscape.

I used the bend lines of the DXF Fusion produced to do a Fast Raster Engrave score line which took a little sorting to get power and speed correct for the job (10% @ 100mm/s), but maybe a dotted line on a cut layer would work too. Either some double sided tape or a spot of glue would help on the sides if I decide to use them for packaging or similar.

Sheetmetal is Worth adding to your skills and changing the size/materials up or down later doesn't take long if you need to.

SVG below if anyone wants to play (needs about 0.5mm stock)

I will be checking that out in my spare time- Brad has gotten to be my favorite F360 personality.

Today's hybrid 3Dprint/Laser is done and the Laser bit is waiting for my order of 10 sheets to arrive The main block could have been made from multiple stacked and cut acrylic but Printing about $2.50 worth of filament was simple and more flexible for shapes and cheaper than Acrylic sheet. Front and back to be 3mm Red Acrylic.

Looks like the edge lit 5050 tape will work nicely and the Hex infill is a bit funky. Nozzle flowmeter/adjustment and water flowmeter/thermometer to be mounted into the front panel of my small Laser. Electrical part of the Temperature Gauge to be mounted on the top as per the panel earlier in this thread.

Just finalizing bed of nails/pins with an origin guide still need to add some adjustment screws. Based on 25x2mm dowel pins for my small Laser with two 4.5mm bottom layers one holed as a sacrificial part over time and one not glued to the sides. The plan is to keep my Honeycomb bed fairly clean and for cloth and paper.

Goldilocks and the three bears style the middle one is just right as is the 0.18mm Kerf I am using.

The Adjusters will most likely be 3D printed then screwed to the lower Acrylic and work off the same bed edge my Honeycomb one uses.

So several months later Finally I have got sick and tired of my honeycomb bed and actually made my pin table.

Looks like the pin bit will need replacing every once in a while providing I keep the extra power close to what is needed. The pins are 25mm long so the top of the bed is 20mm below the lower cut plane so nice and softly focused.

In the end I went with a fractionally undersized Lasered hole (circa 1.9mm) then 10-15 minutes work with a cordless drill to ease them to 2mm. This actually gives a better result than I could get with just the Laser.

Marks on the bed are from cutting the guide rails so I will see how the longevity is or I might just have to hurry up with my CNC router and make one in Aluminium.

Installed along with a simple 3 point adjustment system. I have set the corner datum to a 1mm safe offset so the theory is I can just drop stock in with a zero or whatever I think needed for extra safety. Tomorrow it goes to work on a small production run of Plywood which will make maximizing the small bed size much easier and consistent.

I downloaded the F360 files and... wow. This dude knows how to use F360, fun to look at, too deep for this old brain I am afraid.


https://github.com/chilipeppr/robot-actuator-esp32-v8

If anyone wanted a more simple Robotic arm then this Laser Cut one is electronically easier https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:298820 Plenty of others on thingiverse to look at too.

Couple of my current Fusion 360 projects. They contain some Laser Cut bits but are 3D Printed and woodwork mainly for construction. Indirectly they will all finish up helping me pre process material to Laser cut.

I have included a the files for some power tools if anyone wants to have a play with them in the zip file below. These are rough in look but accurate on the bits that matter (shaft/blades and external dimensions) in the larger design shown. There is a process called 'insert derive' that allows these models to be referenced and included in the larger modular bench also shown. If these files are later updated or have additional details updated then the modular bench design would auto update to the new version of them.

This is the other one I am about to start printing the extra bits for. I need to drill some fairly accurate (vertical) holes in some larger sheets so a pedestal drill won't get it done.

I started looking at the bits to make a plunge base for my Makita cordless drill and decided this commercial base had all the basic bits I needed for less money. BUT it is not particularly stable and wobbles a bit and also the neck ring won't adapt to my Makita. So off to fusion to make a new neck ring and slides. Then decide the wobbly base needed to go so design a new base

The new base is designed with just a 90 and 45 degree option which is likely all I need. The notch cut out in the base plate is designed to use with the 45 degree position and allow a 9mm offset to the notch for drilling and screwing in 17-19mm sheet goods on edge. The other option is using the 3mm lengthwise slot to make and insert jigs for similar offset drilling.

So it is 4 3D Prints and use the hardware from the commercial Drill stand. Cross the fingers and see how it goes

Thanks Tim, I had no intention of building a robot arm but I see that now I will be. I sent the youtube link to my young 'protege' [she was just confirmed yesterday] to see if she wants to help me build a couple. I gave her an Arduino kit a year ago and I have one still in the box so she will have to help me.