LaserUser.com Forum (formerly RDWorksLab)

Greetings! Have been wanting a laser for a few years now and finally pulled the trigger on a red and black eBay 500x700 100W model along with a clone CW-5000 chiller. My day job is Unix and Linux Systems Integration, however I also have a small side business centered around PCB development and coding (holiday lighting controllers to be specific, blinky flashy stuff). I also do woodworking and 3D printing, with my last project being a Voron 2.1 printer (300x300x350) that I built from scratch. My intention for the laser is to broaden into more wood based projects. I'm crossing my fingers that I'll be able to cut 1/2" birch plywood with the machine, but am fully aware that the majority of these eBay machines are sold with factory reject tubes and / or are over-driven. The particular vendor I chose was based of experiences of other users getting EFR tubes (whether legit or factory seconds, I don't know). I'm setting my expectations low and am fully prepared to work on the machine. One of my first projects will be to add some height to the base so I can store the chiller under it, and adding a 30ma ammeter. I would like to acquire a doHICky comparator as well if they're still available (or alternate solution). Looking forward to the adventure!
-shelby

Welcome Shelby.
There is quite a bit of data in the FAQ section you may find useful - Any platform you build for the laser needs to be fairly rigid. The laser head can create quite a bit of motion on a platform that is not rigid as some have learned.

There is a lot of difference in Birch plywoods, number of plys etc. Not sure what you are building but I use a lot of mdf core plywood, much more consistent I have found.

Pete Cyr wrote: Mon Apr 01, 2019 Welcome Shelby.
There is quite a bit of data in the FAQ section you may find useful - Any platform you build for the laser needs to be fairly rigid. The laser head can create quite a bit of motion on a platform that is not rigid as some have learned.

Thanks, I'll keep that in mind for the base. I weld as well so may just build a new stand for it from square tube. I PM'd Russ to see if he is still selling the dohicky kits. Is that a good way to contact him?

Gene Uselman wrote: Mon Apr 01, 2019 There is a lot of difference in Birch plywoods, number of plys etc. Not sure what you are building but I use a lot of mdf core plywood, much more consistent I have found.

I was going to visit a local lumber supplier and get some sample stock for testing. The 1/2" stuff would be for outdoors (painted / sealed). I just found out about MDO (Medium Density Overlay) as well which seems to be the engineered wood of choice for outdoor sign work (and good for laser cutting). Just need to find out where to get it locally.

MDO used to be used for signage but the quality has gotten really shaky, it is mostly used for concrete forms now. The 'skin' on mdo is resin permeated paper and the core is not good anymore. I have better luck with the mdf core plywood which is used for cabinet making. I get some from my local DIY store [Menard's] but it is thinner and only good on one side, ok for making boxes and a lot of the stuff I build but you have to go to a 'real' serious lumber store to get the good stuff. I have 20+ years in the sign business BTW.

Gene Uselman wrote: Mon Apr 01, 2019 MDO used to be used for signage but the quality has gotten really shaky, it is mostly used for concrete forms now. The 'skin' on mdo is resin permeated paper and the core is not good anymore. I have better luck with the mdf core plywood which is used for cabinet making. I get some from my local DIY store [Menard's] but it is thinner and only good on one side, ok for making boxes and a lot of the stuff I build but you have to go to a 'real' serious lumber store to get the good stuff. I have 20+ years in the sign business BTW.

What about for outdoor work though? Is it possible to seal the edge on MDF core plywood? Or if not, what would you recommend? Thanks!
-shelby

It is possible I suppose. I have to wonder what you are using it for, most people these days us ACM Aluminum Composite Material] for signage because it is cheaper, nicer faces and lighter, but it does not work for everything of course. More info please and perhaps I can help. Gene

If it must be wood, it is possible to get quality MDO and then bondo and bevel the edges and a really good seal, prime and paint, but no one now days has the time to do that, and then there is the whole problem of trying to get someone to pay for it.

Shelby Merrick wrote: Mon Apr 01, 2019 Thanks, I'll keep that in mind for the base. I weld as well so may just build a new stand for it from square tube. I PM'd Russ to see if he is still selling the dohicky kits. Is that a good way to contact him?

Not sure - but I email him and asked - he is pretty good answering mail when he knows he has it.