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Hello from St. Augustine

Posted: Wed Jun 19, 2019
by Larry Walewski
Hi everyone.

I am currently in the process of ordering a machine from China, been rather difficult finding a competent customs broker that is willing to deal with an individual, but I finally managed that and I am now settling on the details of the machine, after several emails with Russ. It has some problems I'll have to deal with most likely, but I'm not afraid of diving in and getting dirty with the machine and I think with all the guidance from his videos, I can improve it. Hopefully! Already have the doHICky in hand.

It's a generic LM-1390 machine, with dual 60W/150W heads (opted to replace the RECI/Yongli tubes with SPT, per Russ's advice).

I was wondering, they were going to outfit it with a CW-5200 chiller for the 150W tube and just a regular water pump for the 60W, but I'd rather have the 60W chilled as well. Asked them if there were any chillers that supported 2 tubes, and while they said there were, they said they were designed for 2 tubes of the same power because they distributed the water evenly, and if used with 2 different powered tubes, the higher power tube might not get enough cooling? Is this an accurate claim? Based on that, I'm going to upgrade the water pump to a CW-5000 chiller. I'll at least have a redundant chiller and be able to keep one of the tubes operating, should a chiller fail. But is anyone using a single chiller for 2 different powered tubes with anywhere near this much difference in power between the two, and if so, which model and how much is the price compared to a CW-5200/CW-5000 combination?

I also have the honeycomb table as an option, but after watching many of Russ's videos, I'm debating whether or not I even want it. Does it have ANY use whatsoever, that can't be accomplished some other, better way? It's only an additional $125 (includes extra 25% tariff), but if it's totally worthless or I can build something better myself, I'd rather just do that.

Auto-focus...I've been told only one head can have auto-focus so I opted to have them put it on the 60W head, don't know why. Is this even worth the $62.50...it's just the red switch type pen, and I've seen whole heads with the auto-focus on aliexpress for that price. Also, I imagined that even if the controller doesn't support two auto-focuses, they could at least somehow install an additional manual switch on the side with the rest and wire the two through that so I could manually select which one I wanted to use, but apparently not, according to the factory. If it's just a switch, I suspect it really can be done. They just don't design the machines...only build them from generic blueprints used by all the factories.

Red-dot pointer...just one of the ones that attaches to the head...worth the extra $50? Didn't mention anything about both heads having one though? Is this the same situation as the auto-focus or should both heads be able to have one?

I'm having them leave the machine at 220v, not only to save money, as they charge to rewire it, but I've also read that it's just better for the machine? I'm no electrician or engineer, so I don't know if there is any truth to that? Or would I indeed be better off getting it rewired?

Finally, as I live in St. Augustine, Florida, the humidity here is nowhere near the recommended for these machines. What's the best way to deal with this? Naturally was thinking of a dehumidifier, possibly building an enclosed room in the garage if necessary. I did read the humidifiers won't work in the same room as an 'evap cooler'? Are the CW-5000/5200 'evap coolers' or is that what the CW-3000 and such are?

Sorry for the long post. Thanks for any insight any of you can provide. I've already bugged Russ enough on this subject! ;)

Re: Hello from St. Augustine

Posted: Wed Jun 19, 2019
by Gene Uselman
Larry Walewski wrote: Wed Jun 19, 2019 Hi everyone.
Welcome Larry

I am currently in the process of ordering a machine from China, been rather difficult finding a competent customs broker that is willing to deal with an individual, but I finally managed that and I am now settling on the details of the machine, after several emails with Russ. It has some problems I'll have to deal with most likely, but I'm not afraid of diving in and getting dirty with the machine and I think with all the guidance from his videos, I can improve it. Hopefully! Already have the doHICky in hand.

It's a generic LM-1390 machine, with dual 60W/150W heads (opted to replace the RECI/Yongli tubes with SPT, per Russ's advice).

I was wondering, they were going to outfit it with a CW-5200 chiller for the 150W tube and just a regular water pump for the 60W, but I'd rather have the 60W chilled as well. Asked them if there were any chillers that supported 2 tubes, and while they said there were, they said they were designed for 2 tubes of the same power because they distributed the water evenly, and if used with 2 different powered tubes, the higher power tube might not get enough cooling? Is this an accurate claim? Based on that, I'm going to upgrade the water pump to a CW-5000 chiller. I'll at least have a redundant chiller and be able to keep one of the tubes operating, should a chiller fail. But is anyone using a single chiller for 2 different powered tubes with anywhere near this much difference in power between the two, and if so, which model and how much is the price compared to a CW-5200/CW-5000 combination? I think someone posted lately about having problems with two tubes on the same chiller- so I think this is probably the best way to go.

I also have the honeycomb table as an option, but after watching many of Russ's videos, I'm debating whether or not I even want it. Does it have ANY use whatsoever, that can't be accomplished some other, better way? It's only an additional $125 (includes extra 25% tariff), but if it's totally worthless or I can build something better myself, I'd rather just do that.This depends on what you work with- handy for somethings, not so much for other things.

Auto-focus...I've been told only one head can have auto-focus so I opted to have them put it on the 60W head, don't know why. Is this even worth the $62.50...it's just the red switch type pen, and I've seen whole heads with the auto-focus on aliexpress for that price. Also, I imagined that even if the controller doesn't support two auto-focuses, they could at least somehow install an additional manual switch on the side with the rest and wire the two through that so I could manually select which one I wanted to use, but apparently not, according to the factory. If it's just a switch, I suspect it really can be done. They just don't design the machines...only build them from generic blueprints used by all the factories.
Autofocus seems like a great idea- has never worked for me, easier to set it myself.

Red-dot pointer...just one of the ones that attaches to the head...worth the extra $50? Didn't mention anything about both heads having one though? Is this the same situation as the auto-focus or should both heads be able to have one?
I would advise a combining lens type visable LED- very accurate no matter if in or out of focus. Russ does not like them but I use a different type from LightObject.

I'm having them leave the machine at 220v, not only to save money, as they charge to rewire it, but I've also read that it's just better for the machine? I'm no electrician or engineer, so I don't know if there is any truth to that? Or would I indeed be better off getting it rewired?
My machine was 220V and am slowly converting to 110V- but the two wiring systems are very different and the Chicoms are not good at 110V from most of the machines I have seen.

Finally, as I live in St. Augustine, Florida, the humidity here is nowhere near the recommended for these machines. What's the best way to deal with this? Naturally was thinking of a dehumidifier, possibly building an enclosed room in the garage if necessary. I did read the humidifiers won't work in the same room as an 'evap cooler'? Are the CW-5000/5200 'evap coolers' or is that what the CW-3000 and such are? They are refrigerant coolers so I would think it would be fine.

Sorry for the long post. Thanks for any insight any of you can provide. I've already bugged Russ enough on this subject! ;)
I love St. Aug BTW- we go to the Keys for a relax every winter. Gene

Re: Hello from St. Augustine

Posted: Sun Jun 23, 2019
by Hank Morgan
I also have the honeycomb table as an option, but after watching many of Russ's videos, I'm debating whether or not I even want it. Does it have ANY use whatsoever, that can't be accomplished some other, better way? It's only an additional $125 (includes extra 25% tariff), but if it's totally worthless or I can build something better myself, I'd rather just do that
Greetings!
I've only had my machine a couple of months and I rarely use the honeycomb table. However... I DO like it for rubber stamps. The stamp rubber is to floppy to use with my pin table but it lays nice and flat on the honeycomb and cuts great on that.
If your budget allows, I'd probably get the honeycomb just to have around for those rare times when it's "just the thing". It's hard to have too many tools in the arsenal.
If you're a little strapped for cash I'm sure you can figure out how to get along without it.

Re: Hello from St. Augustine

Posted: Wed Jul 10, 2019
by Larry Walewski
Thanks for the input guys! I ordered the machine Sunday. Probably be a few months before I get it. Can't wait. Luckily I did a little more research, and reached out to Russ one more time. It was still bugging me what Russ had said about the potential for curtaining, so I was searching the manufacturer's site and lo and behold, they did offer the 'speedy' type drive system. So I upgraded to that, and Russ had also recommended the TR tubes from SPT which have the red-dot built onto the tubes, so I upgraded to those as well. Dropped a few of the spare bits and the chuck rotary and this is what I ended up with.

- 1300x900mm table size, allowable working range 1200x900mm
- 150W CO2 laser tube (SPT TR150 tube): 1 pc
- 60W CO2 laser tube (SPT TR75 tube): 1 pc
- Water chiller S&A brand CW-5200: 1 set (for 150W tube cooling)
- Water chiller S&A brand CW-5000: 1 set (for 60W tube cooling)
- RDC6445 CNC controller
- RDworks laser software
- XH speedy precision type transmission
- Blade table
- Stepper motors with ratio gears
- Exhaust fan: 1 pc
- Tool box
- Machine voltage: single phase 220V
- Machine color: blue&white
- honeycomb table 1300x900mm
- Rotary B (roller type)
- Auto focus
- Motorized up-down table
- A set of spare lens and mirrors (1 lens + 3 mirrors) for TR75 head
- A set of spare lens and mirrors (1 lens + 3 mirrors) for TR150 head

Keeping my fingers crossed everything goes smoothly with the import.

Now to figure out what size of a circuit I'm going to need to power this in the garage?

Re: Hello from St. Augustine

Posted: Thu Jul 11, 2019
by Gene Uselman
That is going to be quite a machine- I would love pictures of it when you get it. I had not seen the tube with the combiner lens/visible dot built in- that is going to be a good thing for you I believe. You will not need any exceptional power circuits as the current requirements are quite low. Which manufacturer are you going with and are you importing it yourself? Thanks Gene

Re: Hello from St. Augustine

Posted: Thu Jul 11, 2019
by Jeffrey Aley
Larry Walewski wrote: Wed Jul 10, 2019 It was still bugging me what Russ had said about the potential for curtaining, so I was searching the manufacturer's site and lo and behold, they did offer the 'speedy' type drive system.
Can you provide a link to info about this "Speedy" type drive system? One presumes it's a clone of the Trotec, but I don't even know what the Trotec system looks like.

Thanks,

-Jeff