LaserUser.com Forum (formerly RDWorksLab)

I am trying to get a contract with a manufacturer of bongs and such. His glass is 'different'. It either doesn't etch well or blows out, not getting the dots and if I do they are almost invisible. I have tried masking with no apparent change. Tried any combo of speeds and settings that get me close but unless I fracture the heck out of it and get blow outs it really looks crappy. A few blowouts is also ugly.
This company has been sending their work out to be sandblasted and it takes weeks I guess. I am almost next door. I could do the sandblasting because the mask would be easy. Before I run out an buy a blaster, got any ideas?

50W, Ruidia, lightburn, rotory, l don't remember the glass type but it is the type used for blowing glass. I find glass varies greatly in it's response to the laser.

If it is a bong for smoking it is probably tempered and therefore MUCH harder than regular sheet glass

Somewhere in the deep dark crevasses of my brain I recall that Laser 100 will work on glass? I have been meaning to try it but I don't have one of my rotaries set up for this machine.

If it is a bong for smoking it is probably tempered and therefore MUCH harder than regular sheet glass

And... if it is not a bong for smoking, Pete? That is what we used to use them for way back then.

Well actually at this point this is just scrap cut offs from making them, but It is a special glass and I forget the name. Yes it is hard hard stuff and no it is not tempered. I will try the Laser Bond and see WTF.

Borosilicate

Well today I am unsure what many things may be called in the current lexicon. I too am dated in my definition of a bong - These day the more I learn the more ignorant I find my self to be. Back in the day I had no idea how ignorant I was or how much there was to learn.

Ya I miss those days of knowing so much....lol....I sorta grew out of it and just don't give a crap any more. These young'uns know it all now, we are just dumb ole farts.

Hey the laser bond made the difference of having a product to show this customer and no product. Unreal how that stuff works. BUT I must include some of the setup. LaserBond requests a 2" focal length. I had a lens for that so swapped out, ramped, made my height gauge. The tube was put through two different images. Speed was 30 ips and the best power was 15% second best or almost the same at 18% but at 20% it began to blow out and not be as noteworthy of an etching. All the etchings have a black or gray tint to them but they don't rub off. I don't feel it needs lacquer on top like metal does.

Thanks for the suggestion

Jack

Borosilicate is used for chemistry equipment - beakers etc so it's a lot tougher. Pyrex is similar. I have had some success engraving on to it and can only remember that it ran a lot hotter than 'ordinary' glass.

If you get the settings sorted a good tip for this type of glass is to paint on some bench sodium hydroxide solution after it's engraved. Leave for a couple of days and wash off. You end up with a whiter etch.