Hi Folks,
  I'm curious about 3D engraving.  There are a number of free 3D files available on the 'net, which are targeted at CNC milling.  For example, I just downloaded one that's in a .v3v format.
  How does one convert such a file (or any other 3D format) for laser usage?  Usually the renderer for the 3D image is side-lit.  What we need (I think) is a 2D image where the lightness of the image corresponds exactly to the Z height (white at maximum Z height; black at minimum Z height).
Thanks,
-Jeff
            
			
			
			
			
			
			
			
				
			
			
			3D engraving - how do I convert CNC files?
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				Jeffrey Aley
- Posts: 388
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017
- Location: Folsom, California
- Country: United States
- Laser Machine Make or Type: Kehui
- Laser Power: 50W
- Laser Bed Size: 500mmx300mm
- Home Position: TL
- RDWorks Version: 8.01.24
- Ruida Controller: RDC6442
- Windows Version: Win10 Enterprise
- Accessories: Spray bottle with water (for small fires)
 Fire extinguisher (for big fires)
- 
				Jeffrey Aley
- Posts: 388
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017
- Location: Folsom, California
- Country: United States
- Laser Machine Make or Type: Kehui
- Laser Power: 50W
- Laser Bed Size: 500mmx300mm
- Home Position: TL
- RDWorks Version: 8.01.24
- Ruida Controller: RDC6442
- Windows Version: Win10 Enterprise
- Accessories: Spray bottle with water (for small fires)
 Fire extinguisher (for big fires)
Or maybe there's a way to use a 3D slicer to produce a series of files to be cut on the laser????  I'm still brainstorming... 
            
			
			
			
			
			
			
			
				
			
			
			
- Gene Uselman
- Posts: 2180
- Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2016
- Location: Suburban Minneapolis, Minnesota, US
- Country: USA
- Nickname: Gene
- Laser Machine Make or Type: QC
- Laser Power: 130W
- Laser Bed Size: 900x1300
- Home Position: TR
- Control Software: LIGHTBURN
- RDWorks Version: RDw .19 & Lightburn
- LightBurn Version: Latest
- Ruida Controller: RDC6442
- Windows Version: Win 10 Pro
- Accessories: I have a combining lenses, pin tables [homebuilt], honeycomb tables , wireless remote, Modifed Ultimate Air Assist, home built non-powered rotary device, PrusaMK4 and Mini Prusa printers.
What you need is a 3D Grayscale bitmap-
https://www.google.com/search?client=fi ... ale+images
It then engraves like a bitmap- sometimes 3 or 4 passes are needed. Russ has done a couple [at least] of videos on it.
            
			
			
			
			
			
			
			
				https://www.google.com/search?client=fi ... ale+images
It then engraves like a bitmap- sometimes 3 or 4 passes are needed. Russ has done a couple [at least] of videos on it.
If the Help and advice you received here was of VALUE...
Please consider making a donation to maintain the RDWORKSLAB Forum.
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			Please consider making a donation to maintain the RDWORKSLAB Forum.
The days that I keep my gratitude higher than
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- 
				Pete Cyr
- Posts: 1964
- Joined: Sun Nov 27, 2016
- Location: Suffolk Virginia
- Country: United States
- Laser Machine Make or Type: Boss 1630
- Laser Power: 100w
- Laser Bed Size: 16"x30"
- Home Position: TR
- Control Software: RDWORKS
- RDWorks Version: v8.01.18
- Ruida Controller: RDC6442
- Windows Version: Win 10
- Accessories: roller rotary attachment
I use aspire to create my models.
I have exported a picture of my models and import the into photoshop...create a gray scale, play with the saturation curve, then I perform as an @ 10 to 40% pwr with pretty good results
            
			
			
			
			
			
			
			
				I have exported a picture of my models and import the into photoshop...create a gray scale, play with the saturation curve, then I perform as an @ 10 to 40% pwr with pretty good results
Location - VA
Equipment - Boss Laser 1630
Power - 100W
Laser Bed Size - 16" x 30"
Home Position - TR
Full RDWorks Version - v8.01.18
First name - Pete
			
			
			Equipment - Boss Laser 1630
Power - 100W
Laser Bed Size - 16" x 30"
Home Position - TR
Full RDWorks Version - v8.01.18
First name - Pete
- 
				Jeffrey Aley
- Posts: 388
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017
- Location: Folsom, California
- Country: United States
- Laser Machine Make or Type: Kehui
- Laser Power: 50W
- Laser Bed Size: 500mmx300mm
- Home Position: TL
- RDWorks Version: 8.01.24
- Ruida Controller: RDC6442
- Windows Version: Win10 Enterprise
- Accessories: Spray bottle with water (for small fires)
 Fire extinguisher (for big fires)
Thanks guys!  I also found this https://community.glowforge.com/t/tutor ... aving/6659 .
I grabbed a couple of 3D models from Thingiverse to play with. The MeshLab seems to work as expected, but I haven't cut any of the resulting files on the laser yet.
I'll let you know what I find.
            
			
			
			
			
			
			
			
				
			
			
			I grabbed a couple of 3D models from Thingiverse to play with. The MeshLab seems to work as expected, but I haven't cut any of the resulting files on the laser yet.
I'll let you know what I find.
- Tim Mellor
- Posts: 560
- Joined: Wed May 29, 2019
- Location: Shipwreck Coast, Victoria
- Country: Australia
- Nickname: beanflying
- Laser Machine Make or Type: Vollerun WR3020
- Laser Power: 40W
- Laser Bed Size: 300x200
- Home Position: TR
- RDWorks Version: n/a
- Windows Version: 10
- Accessories: Modded and still Modding some more.
This sort of option might work for you. Requires some Fusion 360 (Free for most) skills and this add on is very simple to use and also a freebie. viewtopic.php?f=111&t=3901#p21921 edit   just read you wanted to engrave not cut 3D models.
  just read you wanted to engrave not cut 3D models.
            
			
			
			
			
			
			
			
				
			
			
			 just read you wanted to engrave not cut 3D models.
  just read you wanted to engrave not cut 3D models.- Tim Mellor
- Posts: 560
- Joined: Wed May 29, 2019
- Location: Shipwreck Coast, Victoria
- Country: Australia
- Nickname: beanflying
- Laser Machine Make or Type: Vollerun WR3020
- Laser Power: 40W
- Laser Bed Size: 300x200
- Home Position: TR
- RDWorks Version: n/a
- Windows Version: 10
- Accessories: Modded and still Modding some more.
Now I have had a second coffee. 
Other tools to try are
Blender https://www.blender.org/ I am a complete novice but it has way more power than I can handle at this stage.
Even the stock rubbish 3D viewer in Windows is of some use as it will export fairly his res screen captures of thew models and you can play with the lighting to a degree.
Fusion 360 does have a rendering environment but at this stage it is fairly limited and it is a CAD program not an artistic one.
Roughy Cat from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:182091/files put through 3d viewer exported this screen capture then put it through Adobe or Inkscape to convert it to an SVG and play with it. Working with the limitations of STL's might need some additional smoothing/rendering to fix the polygon roughness.
            
			
			
			Other tools to try are
Blender https://www.blender.org/ I am a complete novice but it has way more power than I can handle at this stage.
Even the stock rubbish 3D viewer in Windows is of some use as it will export fairly his res screen captures of thew models and you can play with the lighting to a degree.
Fusion 360 does have a rendering environment but at this stage it is fairly limited and it is a CAD program not an artistic one.
Roughy Cat from https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:182091/files put through 3d viewer exported this screen capture then put it through Adobe or Inkscape to convert it to an SVG and play with it. Working with the limitations of STL's might need some additional smoothing/rendering to fix the polygon roughness.
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			- 
				Jeffrey Aley
- Posts: 388
- Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017
- Location: Folsom, California
- Country: United States
- Laser Machine Make or Type: Kehui
- Laser Power: 50W
- Laser Bed Size: 500mmx300mm
- Home Position: TL
- RDWorks Version: 8.01.24
- Ruida Controller: RDC6442
- Windows Version: Win10 Enterprise
- Accessories: Spray bottle with water (for small fires)
 Fire extinguisher (for big fires)
Thanks for the various bits of advice.  Here's the fundamental problem (from a technical perspective).  When we have a 3D model and we look at it on the screen (which is a 2D device), the image is usually created using some form of raytracing.  There is a mathematical model of a light source, and when the "light" hits the object it "reflects" back to the viewport, creating the image we see on the screen.  The way it is rendered is intended to be realistic, with highlights and shadows, and usually the result IS realistic.  (Those of you who are into 3D gaming are perhaps familiar with this).
So far, so good.
But the Laser doesn't care about a realistic rendering with highlights and shadows. We want the laser to carve an actual 3D object. So what it needs is a file that has light colors where the engraving should be shallow, and dark colors where the engraving should be deep. This is very different than the raytraced image we usually see. We need a rendering that I just learned is called "depth mapping".
Here's the cat after depth mapping. The parts of the cat that are closest to us are light; the parts farther away are dark. You can see this most obviously with the ears. Here it is with ordinary flat shading:
Notice how the back of the cat, which is very far away from us, is actually lighter than the shadow under the cat's lip. It LOOKS good - but it's not what we need for 3D laser engraving.
 
Here again, we have a visually pleasing appearance of the cat.
And here's the depth-mapped version. The nose, which is closest to us, is the brightest part of the image. As parts of the cat are farther away, they are darker.
If I can perfect this technique, it means that many of the zillions of 3D images that are out there (for the 3D printer folks) can be 3D engraved using a laser.
Regards,
-Jeff
            
			
			
			So far, so good.
But the Laser doesn't care about a realistic rendering with highlights and shadows. We want the laser to carve an actual 3D object. So what it needs is a file that has light colors where the engraving should be shallow, and dark colors where the engraving should be deep. This is very different than the raytraced image we usually see. We need a rendering that I just learned is called "depth mapping".
Here's the cat after depth mapping. The parts of the cat that are closest to us are light; the parts farther away are dark. You can see this most obviously with the ears. Here it is with ordinary flat shading:
Notice how the back of the cat, which is very far away from us, is actually lighter than the shadow under the cat's lip. It LOOKS good - but it's not what we need for 3D laser engraving.
Here again, we have a visually pleasing appearance of the cat.
And here's the depth-mapped version. The nose, which is closest to us, is the brightest part of the image. As parts of the cat are farther away, they are darker.
If I can perfect this technique, it means that many of the zillions of 3D images that are out there (for the 3D printer folks) can be 3D engraved using a laser.
Regards,
-Jeff
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			- Gene Uselman
- Posts: 2180
- Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2016
- Location: Suburban Minneapolis, Minnesota, US
- Country: USA
- Nickname: Gene
- Laser Machine Make or Type: QC
- Laser Power: 130W
- Laser Bed Size: 900x1300
- Home Position: TR
- Control Software: LIGHTBURN
- RDWorks Version: RDw .19 & Lightburn
- LightBurn Version: Latest
- Ruida Controller: RDC6442
- Windows Version: Win 10 Pro
- Accessories: I have a combining lenses, pin tables [homebuilt], honeycomb tables , wireless remote, Modifed Ultimate Air Assist, home built non-powered rotary device, PrusaMK4 and Mini Prusa printers.
Jeffrey- I forgot to mention that on our lasers the process is *very* slow, more practical for RF lasers. You might want to try it before investing a lot of time.
            
			
			
			
			
			
			
			
				If the Help and advice you received here was of VALUE...
Please consider making a donation to maintain the RDWORKSLAB Forum.
The days that I keep my gratitude higher than
my expectations, Well, I have really good days.
Ray Wylie Hubbard- unfortunately deceased
			
			
			Please consider making a donation to maintain the RDWORKSLAB Forum.
The days that I keep my gratitude higher than
my expectations, Well, I have really good days.
Ray Wylie Hubbard- unfortunately deceased


