Earthing the machine

Hardware settings, adjustments and fixes and other hardware discussion. This includes the "doHICky" Laser Power measurement system by Russ.
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Simon Gornall
Posts: 7
Joined: Thu Oct 31, 2019
Location: San Jose, CA
Country: USA
Nickname: ThrudTheBarbarian
Laser Machine Make or Type: chinese laser off Ebay
Laser Power: 100W
Laser Bed Size: 24" x 39"
Home Position: TL
RDWorks Version: n/a
Windows Version: n/a
Accessories: Rotary option, ethernet

So I don't know how typical this is, but ...

I've just taken delivery of a new laser, a largish-bed Chinese special from Ebay, and I was giving it the once-over before switching it on. I found a few things:

1) I recall seeing Russ saying his wiring was pretty neat, and mine is too, but being the cynical type I disassembled the earthing-pole connection from the mains inlet to the chassis. After taking it apart completely, there is no bare metal for the connection between the earthing-pole and the chassis itself, so the "earth" connection is really going through the paint on the sheet metal before it gets to a real earth. On my Fluke multimeter it was reading 230 ohms resistance between the "earth" and true ground. I sanded down to the metal and now it reads 0 ohms.

I wonder how many machines are poorly earthed like this ? I mean, it's not a huge resistance, and a dry human body is about 100k ohms, but a wet/damp hand is ~1000 ohm and high-voltage currents quickly reduce the resistance of the human body to ~500 ohms; I personally wouldn't like to be part of that potential divider when there's 15,000 volts hanging around.

[vent mode=on]
2) The buggers sent me a 220v laser cutter when I specifically asked for a 110v system, being in sunny California. It's not the end of the world, they shipped a 110->220v transformer as well, but I've heard bad things about the residual currents and getting shocks after it's powered off with those things. I have 220v in the garage, I'll just have to get the electrician to come and wire up something I can use. It's just bloody annoying.

The only way I found this out is by sticking a cell-phone underneath the PSU to snapshot the label that is otherwise hidden. No documentation, no "wire it like this", nothing. Oh well.
[/vent]

I guess the point of this post is "always check", even when it seems stupid. I had even switched the machine on (but not the laser yet) and it was working (presumably because the other psu's are auto-switch), homing and panning the head. I'm waiting on a real water cooler (the CW-3000 they send is pretty awful) and some ducting for the vent/filtering - otherwise I might have jumped in there and possibly screwed up my laser PSU...

Enough. I'm going back to see if there are any other surprises :)
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Gene Uselman
Posts: 2180
Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2016
Location: Suburban Minneapolis, Minnesota, US
Country: USA
Nickname: Gene
Laser Machine Make or Type: QC
Laser Power: 130W
Laser Bed Size: 900x1300
Home Position: TR
Control Software: LIGHTBURN
RDWorks Version: RDw .19 & Lightburn
LightBurn Version: Latest
Ruida Controller: RDC6442
Windows Version: Win 10 Pro
Accessories: I have a combining lenses, pin tables [homebuilt], honeycomb tables , wireless remote, Modifed Ultimate Air Assist, home built non-powered rotary device, PrusaMK4 and Mini Prusa printers.

The grounding problem is pretty common I'm afraid. You are wise to question everything until proven otherwise. The rear outlets deserve a lot of attention before using, especially on 115v machines- they are designed for 220v and the conversion to 115v is suspect. It seems that you are up to the challenge- go forth and prosper
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Jeffrey Aley
Posts: 388
Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2017
Location: Folsom, California
Country: United States
Laser Machine Make or Type: Kehui
Laser Power: 50W
Laser Bed Size: 500mmx300mm
Home Position: TL
RDWorks Version: 8.01.24
Ruida Controller: RDC6442
Windows Version: Win10 Enterprise
Accessories: Spray bottle with water (for small fires)
Fire extinguisher (for big fires)

I think somewhere around here is a startup guide or list of things to check when one first gets a laser [he said, immodestly].

And yes, measuring the resistance to ground is one of the steps. Trusting wire, switches, and sockets that are gauged for 220V (i.e. less current) when running at 120V (i.e. more current) is also dicey.

But after a few hurdles, it'll be a good machine :-)
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