White text black acrylic

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Ian Bell
Posts: 163
Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2016
Location: Bangor, N. Ireland

Willy Ivy wrote: Sat Nov 30, 2019 Ian, when I purchase acrylic I try to get it with paper protective covering instead of plastic. The plastic tends to melt and does not perform as well. If what I purchase only comes in plastic film, I remove it and mask it instead. If you paint it after engraving, use multiple light coats of paint and don't try to do it with one heavy coat.
I didn't actually know about the acrylic being supplied with a paper mask, and makes a lot more sense as the plastic film melts at the edges and draws back, then when I spray the paint makes the edges curl too. Oh and yes I am impatient when spraying, why spray 20 coats when 1 will do :shock: Yes I do tend to overspray each coat.

I have used "masking tape" at times, but i'm sure there's a better alternative as the stuff I use is quite thick in comparison to paper, wonder whats available/recommended in A3/A4 sheet sizes :?:
Location: Bangor
Country: N. Ireland
Nickname: Ian
Laser Machine: Red/Blk Chinese import (Redsail clone ?)
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Home: TR
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RDWorks Version: V8.01.22
Windows Version: 10
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Gene Uselman
Posts: 2180
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Location: Suburban Minneapolis, Minnesota, US
Country: USA
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I have found that calendared acrylic mostly comes with plastic film and cast comes with paper. I always remove the plastic film and remask with application tape. The tape comes on rolls in many sizes and is cheap. This is what we use at the shop:

https://www.amazon.com/Application-Tape ... 167&sr=8-8

There are cheaper brands and most will probably work but failures cost money for a sign shop. I would stay away from the clear films-they are handy for some things but rarely- and they will melt. Paper can be removed by wetting with water normally. On wood I use a cabinet scraper- will smooth the wood and take off the mask nicely and can be re-burnished.

After engraving there will be debris in the cavity which I normally use a cheap electric toothbrush on and then blow off so the paint will adhere.
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Ian Bell
Posts: 163
Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2016
Location: Bangor, N. Ireland

Cheers Gene, i'll look for that transfer paper in UK and give it a whirl, should save me some cleanup hassle :D

Any particular grade or type I need to watch for :?:
Location: Bangor
Country: N. Ireland
Nickname: Ian
Laser Machine: Red/Blk Chinese import (Redsail clone ?)
Power: 80w
Bed Size: 500x700mm
Home: TR
Status: operational
RDWorks Version: V8.01.22
Windows Version: 10
User avatar
Gene Uselman
Posts: 2180
Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2016
Location: Suburban Minneapolis, Minnesota, US
Country: USA
Nickname: Gene
Laser Machine Make or Type: QC
Laser Power: 130W
Laser Bed Size: 900x1300
Home Position: TR
Control Software: LIGHTBURN
RDWorks Version: RDw .19 & Lightburn
LightBurn Version: Latest
Ruida Controller: RDC6442
Windows Version: Win 10 Pro
Accessories: I have a combining lenses, pin tables [homebuilt], honeycomb tables , wireless remote, Modifed Ultimate Air Assist, home built non-powered rotary device, PrusaMK4 and Mini Prusa printers.

As I said- the R-tape is good stuff with good tack which we need and is handy on raw wood. I have seen some real crap, and some is sawn to size [rough edges] so I don't experiment with success.
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Please consider making a donation to maintain the RDWORKSLAB Forum.



The days that I keep my gratitude higher than
my expectations, Well, I have really good days.

Ray Wylie Hubbard- unfortunately deceased
User avatar
Ian Bell
Posts: 163
Joined: Sat Nov 19, 2016
Location: Bangor, N. Ireland

I have ordered some, will see how it goes, thanks for the advice
Location: Bangor
Country: N. Ireland
Nickname: Ian
Laser Machine: Red/Blk Chinese import (Redsail clone ?)
Power: 80w
Bed Size: 500x700mm
Home: TR
Status: operational
RDWorks Version: V8.01.22
Windows Version: 10
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