Cleaning honeycomb cutting surface

[Dan Torrey]

I have been cutting for several months now and have mainly been cutting 3mm baltic birch with abit of solid wood from Ocooch hardwood. I have a build up of residue that occasionally finds its way to the bottom side of my work. Before I trial and error the cleaning I am asking for some advice from some of the seasoned veterans in the group. Anything would be greatly appreciated.

[Willy Ivy]

I use one of two methods and sometimes both if I wait too long between cleanings.
First is, soak it in Purple Power degreaser. Mix it stong.
Second is soak it in Purple Power aluminum brightener (if your honeycomb is aluminum).
When you get finished with it, it should look as clean as the day you bought it.
Wear gloves and don't get it on your skin.
Both products can be found at an auto parts store.
You can also spray it on and wash it but it will not get as clean if you don't soak it.
Use the same degreaser to clean your bed and anywhere else you get smoke deposits.

[Doug Fisher]

Other cleaners people have used:

Zep 505
Zep Purple industrial cleaner and degreaser (my current choice)
Krudkutter
Oven cleaner

In my experience, the key is to spray the grid from all angles to make sure all areas of the individual cells are covered and then let the cleaner soak. I spray, wait a few minutes, and then spray again. The first round is the most important because subsequent rounds after rinsing via water spraying will dilute the cleaner to some extent due to the already wet surface.

If you have a power washer AND are careful enough to not bend your honeycomb, it can really help with deep cleaning.

A good work setup is to place your honeycomb across the top of a square trashcan or garbage roll-off container. This prevents bounce-back dirt from splashing back up into the honeycomb grid when spraying with the hose or power washer. There is going to be lots of dark gunk coming off your honeycomb that you don't want to get on your sidewalk, deck or whatever, but which easily washes off plastic trashcans.

When done as well as between rounds of spraying cleaner, rap your honeycomb on the top of your trashcan to dislodge accumulated water. Flip over to do both sides. Put the honeycomb in direct sunlight and aim a fan at it to dry it as quickly as possible and minimize rust.

[Pete Cyr]

The purple degreaser...purchased at most auto stores... will dissolve the residue and you can rinse with a hose.
Works great...if you are a little patient.

Get a tub you can submerge the honeycomb in and cover with the purple 50/50 mix

[Doug Fisher]

The other thing to consider is buying a sheet of cold roll sheet steel cut to size to fit down into your honeycomb bed's recessed area within its frame. For many materials, it is much easier to keep clean than a honeycomb bed. It just wipes down using a good degreaser or acetone. I posted a thread here in the forums about doing this.

[Tim Mellor]

Other cleaners people have used:

Zep 505
Zep Purple industrial cleaner and degreaser (my current choice)
Krudkutter
Oven cleaner

Just needs a small caveat If you are using Oven Cleaner and similar it WILL generally attack Aluminium. So the Aluminium surrounds of most pin beds and the blades if they are too.

The Same thing applies to my favourite as I have it on hand Espresso Machine cleaner or even Oxy styled Nappy Cleaner or Laundry Booster (sodium carbonate (30-60%), sodium percarbonate (10-30%), sodium sulfate (10-30%)). Either of these works well on the leftovers from Lasering cheap Plywood. The Espresso Cleaner is not your friend with Aluminium and I have not tested the other mixes.

Now it is Clean again I built an easier to clean pin bed or the sheet of Steel with risers like Doug mentions

[Dan Torrey]

THANKS TO ALL, YOU HAVE SAVED ME TIME IN DOING MY OWN RESEARCH, MUCH APPRECIATED!!