New laser tube. Worked perfectly first time. power dropped significantly 1 week later

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Joe Jordans
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2020
Location: Adelaide
Country: Australia
Laser Machine Make or Type: China Blue
Laser Power: ~45W
Laser Bed Size: 400x600
Home Position: BL
RDWorks Version: -
Ruida Controller: Other
Windows Version: 10

Hi Everyone.
I have a 'China Blue' laser cutter/engraver. I recently replaced the tube that came with the machine with a new one from CloudRay. (45W tube https://www.cloudraylaser.com/collectio ... 6778244236) The sales team have been very good so far. I got an out of office reply when I tried to contact them today...)
I have an ammeter and have limited the current to 20mA
I also bought a radiator type chiller to make sure that the tube docent over heat. The chiller shows the temperature and and has an alarm for water flow and over temp.I also upgraded the mirrors to Si Mirrors.
My machine is in an uninsulated shed, It is winter here in Australia and it has been very cold. night time temperatures have been around 6C and I have operated the laser at about 10C.

The first weekend, my laser worked perfectly and I was presently surprised by the amount of power I had as my first laser was advertised as 50W. This weekend when I was testing on some 3mm MDF, I could only get a very faint line at 100% power 15mm/s. normally, I could cut with ~50% power. The mark made by the laser was very fine, ie. the laser is focused to a very fine point.

I tried to clean the mirrors and did not get any improvement.

has anyone had a similar problem? I thought about getting one of these https://www.bell-laser.com/product-page ... -200-watts power probes for $135USD to try to track down the problem. is there another (free or very cheap) way to test the laser power?
Dave Vigness
Posts: 526
Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2019
Location: Kansas City - Rural
Country: USA
Nickname: Dave
Laser Machine Make or Type: Chine Red and Black
Laser Power: EF RF2 80W
Laser Bed Size: 20 x 26
Home Position: TR
Control Software: RDWORKS
RDWorks Version: 8.01.54
Ruida Controller: RDC6445
Windows Version: 7
Accessories: Power Switch for air assist / exhaust blower, Ma meter with switch for external digital, dual digital temp gauge, LED lights under gantry and and and.

Pics and a list here. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

Touch base with Russ. His Dohicky goes for £29 and takes any K type thermistor. You can pick up a meter just about anywhere. I got mine off Amazon for $18 USD. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FF ... UTF8&psc=1
Joe Jordans
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2020
Location: Adelaide
Country: Australia
Laser Machine Make or Type: China Blue
Laser Power: ~45W
Laser Bed Size: 400x600
Home Position: BL
RDWorks Version: -
Ruida Controller: Other
Windows Version: 10

Thanks. How do I get in touch with Russ?
Joe Jordans
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2020
Location: Adelaide
Country: Australia
Laser Machine Make or Type: China Blue
Laser Power: ~45W
Laser Bed Size: 400x600
Home Position: BL
RDWorks Version: -
Ruida Controller: Other
Windows Version: 10

Don’t worry, I found his email address
Dave Vigness
Posts: 526
Joined: Sun Dec 15, 2019
Location: Kansas City - Rural
Country: USA
Nickname: Dave
Laser Machine Make or Type: Chine Red and Black
Laser Power: EF RF2 80W
Laser Bed Size: 20 x 26
Home Position: TR
Control Software: RDWORKS
RDWorks Version: 8.01.54
Ruida Controller: RDC6445
Windows Version: 7
Accessories: Power Switch for air assist / exhaust blower, Ma meter with switch for external digital, dual digital temp gauge, LED lights under gantry and and and.

Pics and a list here. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

Sorry I didn't get back right away, honey do projects.

I like the meter he uses in his videos, it has a max button so you can see what you had. The reading will drop immediately on beam off so it's a handy feature. My multi meter actually has a temp probe input, but it has a HOLD instead of a MAX. Not quite the same thing.

Check out his video on using it.
Joe Jordans
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2020
Location: Adelaide
Country: Australia
Laser Machine Make or Type: China Blue
Laser Power: ~45W
Laser Bed Size: 400x600
Home Position: BL
RDWorks Version: -
Ruida Controller: Other
Windows Version: 10

Thanks. I ended up emailing Russ. He suggested some troubleshooting steps. I’m pretty sure my laser is fine.
I think my problem is with the head. It is a bit flimsy and I think I knocked it out of alignment. I think that the laser spot is hitting the side of the tube. I’m still having trouble getting it aligned but at least I know where the problem is.
Joe Jordans
Posts: 8
Joined: Sat Aug 22, 2020
Location: Adelaide
Country: Australia
Laser Machine Make or Type: China Blue
Laser Power: ~45W
Laser Bed Size: 400x600
Home Position: BL
RDWorks Version: -
Ruida Controller: Other
Windows Version: 10

All working now. It was an alignment problem at the last mirror.
Diagnosed by burning acrylic after each mirror and removing the lens and testing on the table. There was power all of the way but nothing when the lens was replaced.
The beam was hitting the side of the tube and missing the nozzle. The last mirror is a bit low but I don’t have any vertical adjustment so I had to align it with the centre by adjusting the last mirror. The beam is now slightly off vertical.
I need to upgrade the head to get some vert adjustment
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Gene Uselman
Posts: 2181
Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2016
Location: Suburban Minneapolis, Minnesota, US
Country: USA
Nickname: Gene
Laser Machine Make or Type: QC
Laser Power: 130W
Laser Bed Size: 900x1300
Home Position: TR
Control Software: LIGHTBURN
RDWorks Version: RDw .19 & Lightburn
LightBurn Version: Latest
Ruida Controller: RDC6442
Windows Version: Win 10 Pro
Accessories: I have a combining lenses, pin tables [homebuilt], honeycomb tables , wireless remote, Modifed Ultimate Air Assist, home built non-powered rotary device, PrusaMK4 and Mini Prusa printers.

Russ and I collaborated on a tool to check how the beam is aligned with the nozzle-

.
anal thermometer2.jpg
The four corners of the bed should be checked for best alignment- the holes should just go outside of your nozzle.
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