Hi all,
I'm curious about replacing my mirrors and lens on my 50W laser. I've read some information on it, but am really wondering if the lens and mirrors you can get on Amazon are a worthwhile upgrade. 
If it is indeed worth it, what can I expect in terms of improvements?
Also, one thing I've been trying to track down is what the ideal water temp should be for the laser? I have a 5Gall igloo cooler and aquarium pump that I use. I basically fill it with ice water and try to keep it as cold as possilbe. Not sure if too cold is an issue. I need to figure out some ice pack solution with distilled water as I'm changing the water once the ice water melts. I know it's not ideal.
Thanks all.
            
			
			
			
			
			
			
			
				Mirror / Lens upgrades
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				Mike Syv
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Sun Sep 10, 2017
- Location: Denver, CO
- Country: USA
- Nickname: Effinsyv
- Laser Machine Make or Type: Orion Motor Tech
- Laser Power: 50
- Laser Bed Size: 12x20
- Home Position: TL
- Control Software: LIGHTBURN
- RDWorks Version: 8.01.18
- Ruida Controller: Other
- Windows Version: 10
- Accessories: Ruida 644XG
 Rotary attachment, milliamp gauge, AC Infinity S6, Water supply and return cutoffs, Honeycomb bed
Orion Motor Tech 50w
			
			
			- sebastien laforet
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2016
- Location: Lyon
- Country: France
- Laser Machine Make or Type: bodor BCL0605MU
- Laser Power: 100W
- Laser Bed Size: 60*50cm
- Home Position: TR
- RDWorks Version: 8.01.19
- Windows Version: 7
you can get quality mirrors and lenses on cloudray (https://www.cloudraylaser.com/, also present on aliexpress https://fr.aliexpress.com/store/1513187 ). they are probably not "the best" but very good and cheap.
you should not expect any real improvement if your actual mirrors are not utterly crap. probably at best 1 or 2% more power... you can get a real improvement (or mainly "restore" normal output) if your lens is dirty and not cleanable (*)
as for water temp, i have run as low as 12°c and no more than 25°c, and i never saw a difference in the laser output. you should just avoid setting temperature too low when it is hot and damp, as i might create condensation on the tube (and water + high voltage = not good)
(for example when your coworker failed to use correctly air assist and there is a large clogging on the lens that refuses to wash out even with alcohol rubbing)
            
			
			
			
			
			
			
			
				you should not expect any real improvement if your actual mirrors are not utterly crap. probably at best 1 or 2% more power... you can get a real improvement (or mainly "restore" normal output) if your lens is dirty and not cleanable (*)
as for water temp, i have run as low as 12°c and no more than 25°c, and i never saw a difference in the laser output. you should just avoid setting temperature too low when it is hot and damp, as i might create condensation on the tube (and water + high voltage = not good)
(for example when your coworker failed to use correctly air assist and there is a large clogging on the lens that refuses to wash out even with alcohol rubbing)
Sébastien Laforet
machine : Bodor BCL-0605 (60x50) with 100W laser with TR origin.
Live in France
Primarily works laser for my wife (school teacher, so lots of boxes, letters, puzzles, ...) and miniature scenery (32mm scale : warmachine, infinity)
			
			
			machine : Bodor BCL-0605 (60x50) with 100W laser with TR origin.
Live in France
Primarily works laser for my wife (school teacher, so lots of boxes, letters, puzzles, ...) and miniature scenery (32mm scale : warmachine, infinity)
- Gene Uselman
- Posts: 2180
- Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2016
- Location: Suburban Minneapolis, Minnesota, US
- Country: USA
- Nickname: Gene
- Laser Machine Make or Type: QC
- Laser Power: 130W
- Laser Bed Size: 900x1300
- Home Position: TR
- Control Software: LIGHTBURN
- RDWorks Version: RDw .19 & Lightburn
- LightBurn Version: Latest
- Ruida Controller: RDC6442
- Windows Version: Win 10 Pro
- Accessories: I have a combining lenses, pin tables [homebuilt], honeycomb tables , wireless remote, Modifed Ultimate Air Assist, home built non-powered rotary device, PrusaMK4 and Mini Prusa printers.
Cloudray sells quite a few parts on Amazon in the states BTW.
            
			
			
			
			
			
			
			
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- 
				Mike Syv
- Posts: 14
- Joined: Sun Sep 10, 2017
- Location: Denver, CO
- Country: USA
- Nickname: Effinsyv
- Laser Machine Make or Type: Orion Motor Tech
- Laser Power: 50
- Laser Bed Size: 12x20
- Home Position: TL
- Control Software: LIGHTBURN
- RDWorks Version: 8.01.18
- Ruida Controller: Other
- Windows Version: 10
- Accessories: Ruida 644XG
 Rotary attachment, milliamp gauge, AC Infinity S6, Water supply and return cutoffs, Honeycomb bed
Thanks all for the tips. Good point on the condensation. I hadn't thought of that one. I'll have to check that one to make sure it's not condensing on the tube at all as the water does get pretty cold as I have a pretty high ice to water ratio.
Also thinking about some of the different focal lengths. I have the 1.5" which I believe is the default. If i go to a longer focal length, can I effectively cut thicker material in one pass with a more straight kerf? Is that the idea behind changing the lenses?
I feel I should probably know most of this stuff as I've had it for a few years, but only recently got it where I feel like the system is pretty dialed in...Prob going to lightburn next to see if some of my cutting mismatching goes away.
thanks again!
            
			
			
			
			
			
			
			
				Also thinking about some of the different focal lengths. I have the 1.5" which I believe is the default. If i go to a longer focal length, can I effectively cut thicker material in one pass with a more straight kerf? Is that the idea behind changing the lenses?
I feel I should probably know most of this stuff as I've had it for a few years, but only recently got it where I feel like the system is pretty dialed in...Prob going to lightburn next to see if some of my cutting mismatching goes away.
thanks again!
Orion Motor Tech 50w
			
			
			- sebastien laforet
- Posts: 143
- Joined: Wed Sep 07, 2016
- Location: Lyon
- Country: France
- Laser Machine Make or Type: bodor BCL0605MU
- Laser Power: 100W
- Laser Bed Size: 60*50cm
- Home Position: TR
- RDWorks Version: 8.01.19
- Windows Version: 7
that's the theory, BUT with a longer focal length, the "dot" size is larger so your cutting capacity may slightly decrease (as more matter shall be destroyed by a larger beam). you gain on the verticality of the cut, and also on the adjustment of the focal (more tolerant to not completely plane table). if you have a powerful tube, that's ok, but with a weak tube (say 40W), you may have to decrease speed to achieve the same cut, even for shallow materials where you will have no gain using a longer focal length.Mike Syv wrote: Wed Nov 11, 2020 Also thinking about some of the different focal lengths. I have the 1.5" which I believe is the default. If i go to a longer focal length, can I effectively cut thicker material in one pass with a more straight kerf? Is that the idea behind changing the lenses?
be careful ; when changing focal lens, you probably have to change the nozzle and/or the lens mount in the head! otherwise the longer beam will hit the inside of the nozzle.
Sébastien Laforet
machine : Bodor BCL-0605 (60x50) with 100W laser with TR origin.
Live in France
Primarily works laser for my wife (school teacher, so lots of boxes, letters, puzzles, ...) and miniature scenery (32mm scale : warmachine, infinity)
			
			
			machine : Bodor BCL-0605 (60x50) with 100W laser with TR origin.
Live in France
Primarily works laser for my wife (school teacher, so lots of boxes, letters, puzzles, ...) and miniature scenery (32mm scale : warmachine, infinity)
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				Bryan Kelly
- Posts: 66
- Joined: Wed Oct 21, 2020
- Location: Ontario
- Country: Canada
- Nickname: BCK
- Laser Machine Make or Type: (Ketai) KT 9060...
- Laser Power: EFR-F2-80 watt
- Laser Bed Size: 900x600
- Home Position: TL
- Control Software: RDWORKS
- RDWorks Version: V8.01.48
- Ruida Controller: RDC6445
- Windows Version: 10
- Accessories: honeycomb bed, Hiwin linear guide rails, mA meter, rotary, digital water flow meter w/temp, material pass through, red dot, electric table. 1/4 hp sea line pro 300A chiller..
I use a 2 inch-50.8mm focal lens, not sure, but I feel a good all around.. as for ice, I use freezer packs, put in a couple and add one here n there as needed, to maintain 18-20C, when done, take them out, wipe/dry them off, re-freeze...
            
			
			
			
			
			
			
			
				
			
			
			

