Exploration and minor modifications

[Dave Klein]

New machine, New User, 4 modifications I feel useful for Safety and standardization before even making any test operations. Attachments are a checklist to check my enthusiasm for placing it into operation before I'm reasonably (and wife definitely) convinced it would be safe.
Highlighting modifications (red entries): Outside of accessories, Total cost was about $25.00 (Meter & Grounding Rod), and took a good 8 hours, but now all switches, connections, and cleanliness should provide for logical and safe operation. (1) Adding a circuit interrupt power strip for Exhaust, Air and Water allows them to still be controlled via the "Main" switch and "Emergency Stop" but not ON, when I just want access to the RD controller. It requires throwing another switch in addition to the "laser" when ready for operation... but without the noise. Note: Alarm function (Water) will not allow Laser operation until this switch pushed; (2) Moving "light" switch from the side to front (utilizing "Standby" switch) locates the Red Dot, Safety interlock and Light switches to a convenient location, while keeping the operational (Main, Laser and Accessories) switches on the side away from accidental tripping; (3) Adding a digital mA meter (0-999 mA) was simple following several U tube videos; (4) The platform light was ineffective and blinding, I thought about adding additional LED's but discovered moving it off the back wall and facing it downward attached just below the lid hinge, accomplished light distribution and then added a strip of yellow 3/8" tape as a diffuse to the cap.
Been a week since unpacking, but confident I'm ready to fire it up and see it run.

[Pete Cyr]

That is a very detailed list and checklist - nicely one.

[Jeffrey Aley]

Well, that's very thorough, and is sure to be useful to others who have just received their laser!

I have a couple of small bits of feedback.
I believe the CW3000 is a radiator, and not a chiller. It will not cool the water below ambient temperature. This may or may not be suitable for your particular environment (and laser power). Personally, I'm still using a bucket, so a CW3000 would be fine for my application.

You insulated all of the panel gaps with foam tape, and you added a safety interlock to the lid. I suspect you'll find this to be a problem. If I understand correctly, you've eliminated the sources of "make-up air". I found that even with the stock crappy extraction fan, I get better extraction for engraving when I open the lid several inches to allow a good laminar flow across the workpiece.

You added a ground rod (good), but you did not mention that you checked that the machine frame is actually connected to grounding point. On some machines, the powdercoat insulates the frame from the ground wire connection. It is worthwhile to check the connectivity to ground with an ohmmeter.

It is not clear to me if you have wired the accessories (extraction fan, air pump, chiller) in series with the E-Stop switch or if they're connected to a power strip that is connected directly to an outlet in your workshop. The latter is preferred because the wiring in the machine is not capable of handling the current requirements of these devices, especially if you live in a country that uses 110VAC instead of 220VAC. There are many tales of E-Stop switches failing (melting). Since it is a good idea for the E-Stop to shut off EVERYTHING, I suggest you replace it with a more robust one (and re-wire the machine with heavier gauge wire) if you go this route.

Additional suggestions:
Check all grub screws (set screws) for tightness. These should be present on the X and Y-axis drive gears.
Add hose clamps to all barbed hose connections (air, water - especially water).

Regards,

-Jeff

[Dave Klein]

Thanks for the feedback, what you said is true about the "chiller" it is not a refrigerator based item, but it is its name. It does help cool the tube and unlike the fish tank pump /bucket process does so with an enclosed clean flow of water with an alarm presence. Sound deadening tape (1/4" square) replaced the flat plastic feet that came on the machine and is only in corners. In factory condition Air, Water, Exhaust all plugged into power sockets controlled by the machine, In order to run the controller interface all these systems were On and controlled only by the Main switch. I simply plugged them into a power strip (Circuit breaker protected) and it into the machine, providing a means of being able to use the interface without those systems having to be on. The noise they generated was not required because their purpose is not required except when the Laser is on. Re-wiring the machine is not a realistic event, I don't have the skill or knowledge, should it come to that... ? I hope people can see the post as intended, not a blueprint or a recommendation other than to approach the whole thing in a systematical way with safety not time as priority. Sorry for the confusion in some descriptions, again their my notes not meant as all inclusive details. I purchased a "cheap Chinese Laser", in fact the cheapest I could find because I don't know any better. I have no formal plans only visions for what it might be. Nothing is reality based in this endeavor because its all an unknown, however I will to the best of my ability safely give it a chance. If I like it, I'll keep it, if not it'll be gone, but my house or life won't.

[Jeffrey Aley]

Thanks for the feedback, what you said is true about the "chiller" it is not a refrigerator based item, but it is its name. It does help cool the tube and unlike the fish tank pump /bucket process does so with an enclosed clean flow of water with an alarm presence. Sound deadening tape (1/4" square) replaced the flat plastic feet that came on the machine and is only in corners. In factory condition Air, Water, Exhaust all plugged into power sockets controlled by the machine, In order to run the controller interface all these systems were On and controlled only by the Main switch. I simply plugged them into a power strip (Circuit breaker protected) and it into the machine, providing a means of being able to use the interface without those systems having to be on. The noise they generated was not required because their purpose is not required except when the Laser is on. Re-wiring the machine is not a realistic event, I don't have the skill or knowledge, should it come to that... ? I hope people can see the post as intended, not a blueprint or a recommendation other than to approach the whole thing in a systematical way with safety not time as priority. Sorry for the confusion in some descriptions, again their my notes not meant as all inclusive details. I purchased a "cheap Chinese Laser", in fact the cheapest I could find because I don't know any better. I have no formal plans only visions for what it might be. Nothing is reality based in this endeavor because its all an unknown, however I will to the best of my ability safely give it a chance. If I like it, I'll keep it, if not it'll be gone, but my house or life won't.

Thanks for explaining. For other new folks reading this, it is worthwhile to note that my bucket of water is actually enclosed (a lid!) and my laser does have a water-protect alarm (as most of them do). While mine works, what Dave has is definitely superior.

As a rule of thumb, and I AM talking about safety here, NEVER plug anything into the convenience outlets on your laser. At best, these Chinese lasers are wired for 220VAC. Similarly-powered accessories running at 110VAC will draw TWICE the current, and the wiring simply can't handle it. Neither can the switches. I am an advocate of a switched power-strip (UL Listed!) like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/Tripp-Lite-Indiv ... B0068LACFI .

And while we're talking about safety, be prepared for a fire. It happens far more often than you'd expect. By "be prepared" I mean NEVER NEVER leave the laser unattended while running. Need to pee? Press PAUSE until you return. Have appropriate fire extinguishers handy. I also keep a spray bottle for small fires in case I'm lucky enough to catch it before it gets out of hand.

Don't be afraid of your machine, but do treat it with respect.

[Doug Fisher]

To add to what Jeffery said, invest in the slightly more expensive CO2 type of extinguisher of a decent size and mount it a few steps away from your machine. It is better to have too much extinguisher than to not have enough. CO2 attacks most things that might catch fire in your laser but it doesn't blow a cloud of white dust/grit everywhere.

[Dave Klein]

Excellent tips and further explanation. I did purchase an extinguisher, not CO2 (point well taken about dry chem. being messy). Also moved the power strip to be part of the dedicated new circuit from the main house circuit panel (30A breaker w/ #10 wire) for the Laser workspace vice into the machine directly as you identified the reason for doing so, it maintains the same function without the risk (Thanks). I don't want to give the wrong impression, I'm not stubborn, or arrogant but like being given a logical reason why something is recommended and not just based on a personal preference.

[Jeffrey Aley]

Excellent tips and further explanation. I did purchase an extinguisher, not CO2 (point well taken about dry chem. being messy). Also moved the power strip to be part of the dedicated new circuit from the main house circuit panel (30A breaker w/ #10 wire) for the Laser workspace vice into the machine directly as you identified the reason for doing so, it maintains the same function without the risk (Thanks). I don't want to give the wrong impression, I'm not stubborn, or arrogant but like being given a logical reason why something is recommended and not just based on a personal preference.

Dave,

I think it's great that you've documented the things you've done and the reasons why. By giving the "why", the people who read your posts are able to learn something instead of just blindly following.

Regards,

-Jeff

[Jeremy Butler]

While everyone is talking about fire extinguishers and safety check these out: https://www.afofireballs.com/
I stabilize wood for pen and knife makers which means baking wood for 24+ hours at a time. I have seen several friends shops burn over the years and several saved due to this fully automatic product.